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London Fashion Week Expands, Highlights Sustainability While New York Shifts to Women‑Led Wearability

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  • Creative Director William Costelloe, son of the late designer Paul Costelloe
    Creative Director William Costelloe, son of the late designer Paul Costelloe
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  • Agro Studio unveiled its AW26 collection, titled, The Wanderer
    Agro Studio unveiled its AW26 collection, titled, The Wanderer
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  • The collection, inspired by mythology of the traveller, features natural textures
    The collection, inspired by mythology of the traveller, features natural textures
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  • Nicky Hilton Rothschild, Joe Locke, Gugu Mbatha-Raw, Lily Collins and Sumayya Vally attend the Harris Reed show at Claridge's Hotel
    Nicky Hilton Rothschild, Joe Locke, Gugu Mbatha-Raw, Lily Collins and Sumayya Vally attend the Harris Reed show at Claridge's Hotel
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London’s Schedule Grows With Fee Waivers to Boost Global Standing The British Fashion Council listed 41 runway shows and 20 presentations, a rise of over 10 % from the previous year, and waived entry fees for a second consecutive season to lower barriers for emerging talent and revive London’s international reputation [1].

Royal Front‑Row Spotlights Eco‑Focused Design King Charles III attended Tolu Coker’s sustainability‑centric show, where the British‑Nigerian designer used dead‑stock fabrics, eco‑friendly dyes, and vibrant tartan; other eco‑driven collections included KSENIASCHNAIDER’s up‑cycled military pieces and Annie Doble’s beaded gowns, underscoring a week-wide emphasis on responsible sourcing [1].

Women‑Led Designers Prioritize Wearability Over Spectacle in New York At NYFW, labels such as Collina Strada, Tory Burch, and Anna Sui presented sharply tailored, “throw‑it‑on‑for‑that‑million‑bucks” pieces aimed directly at women’s closets, with designers explicitly rejecting the male gaze and framing customers as muses [2].

Fashion Weeks Merge Style With Social Advocacy New York’s shows featured political activism, including the CFDA‑ACLU ICE OUT campaign and Diotima’s anti‑imperialist collection using Wifredo Lam’s palette, while London highlighted up‑cycled military aesthetics; both weeks illustrate a growing trend of fashion platforms addressing sustainability and sociopolitical issues [1][2].

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Timeline

Late 2025 – J.Crew releases a candy‑floss pink sweater that goes viral after conservative commentator Juanita Broaddrick posts “Are you kidding me?? Men, would you wear this $168 sweater?” on X, sparking a backlash labeling the piece “feminized” and igniting a broader debate over masculinity in men’s fashion [4].

Dec 28, 2025 – Spring/Summer 2026 runways across London, Paris, Milan and New York flood the scene with bold yellows, reds and greens, as major houses such as Loewe, Dior and Fendi embrace loud luxury, voluminous silhouettes and embellished tasselled details that signal a shift from the previous quiet‑luxury mood [2].

Jan 15, 2026 – The quarter‑zip emerges as the emblem of a restrained, quality‑focused menswear wave, with viral social‑media videos and high‑profile adopters popularising the piece as a calm, aspirational alternative to logo‑driven streetwear, while loafers and loosely tied ties also return as markers of polished style [5].

Jan 26, 2026 – Paris Men’s Fashion Week showcases Fall‑Winter 2026 collections in burnt orange, dusty pink and magenta, with designers like Auralee, Amiri and Louis Vuitton championing vivid hues as a radical expansion of menswear palettes, even as manosphere and tradwife groups launch online backlash against perceived “feminization” of men’s clothing [4].

Feb 18, 2026 – Women‑led designers dominate New York Fashion Week’s Fall 2026 shows, prioritising wearability and “throw‑it‑on‑for‑that‑million‑bucks” pieces; designers such as Hillary Taymour of Collina Strada describe their work as “distinctly feminine” and aimed at women’s lives rather than the male gaze, while the CFDA partners with the ACLU on an ICE OUT campaign to foreground immigration reform [3].

Feb 21, 2026 – London Fashion Week expands to 41 runway shows and 20 presentations, a >10 % rise aided by the British Fashion Council waiving entry fees for a second year; King Charles III front‑rows Tolu Coker’s sustainability‑focused collection, William Costelloe declares his debut “a celebration of tailoring” that “makes women look incredible,” and legacy houses such as Joseph return under creative director Mario Arena after a nine‑year hiatus, underscoring the council’s revival strategy [1].

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